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S/S ’16 Review: Alberta Ferretti, Jil Sander, Antonio Marras

Alberta Ferretti

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This season at Alberta Ferretti, the collection went boho. While staying very true to her classically feminine aesthetic, her desert inspiration seemed very prominent and really gave a fluidity and relaxed feel to all of the garments. While there were some more structured pieces in linen and suede, I really loved her pieces in chiffon. She used pattern mixing, chiffon braiding, and chiffon fringe to give piece a unique feel. One of my favorite looks was the show opener, a sheer layered chiffon maxi dress over a chiffon blouse. It really makes me reconsider all the dresses in my closet as layering pieces. Another great look was her bright rust chiffon shift dress. While the shape is shift, it still had really amazing movement sue to the fabric and the chiffon fringe that she lined up down the dress. I think that’s such a great detail, not to mention that it’s also slimming. Looking at the show as a whole, I also really enjoyed the simple updos and gladiator sandals. It seems as if flats are going to continue to go strong into next year. I think Ferretti did a great job at expanding the limits of the brand, and hope she continues to push herself from the brand’s roots.

Jil Sander

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This season’s collection at Jil Sander all seemed a little hit or miss to me. There were some truly amazing and luxe looks that Paglialunga sent down the runway, yet some just really seemed overwrought, especially in the camo print. But you judge for yourself. The first aspect of this collection that I loved was all of the midi lengths, which looked great with the buckled pilgrim-esque flats (I’d like a pair in burgundy and and black please). But I was also really a fan of the variety of fabrics, and fabric weights, as well as the shine. Two of my favorite looks were those done in a beautiful baby blue (the color was only used twice). They both feature amazing skirts, and beautifully draped waist cutouts. Another favorite of mine was the black suit with unexpected shoulder cutouts, professional and creative. But the looks that really stay in my mind are the last of the show, which really seemed to resemble straight jackets. Buckled straps that encased arms or shoulders added a hard edge to otherwise simple and luxurious dresses. While I can’t support all of the collection, there are some amazing looks in this collection, and new trends (shoulder cutouts, draped cutouts, buckles etc.) that I think will definitely be present next year.

Antonio Marras

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“I start with the simple lines and the simple shapes. But in the end I think normality is too boring. I prefer eccentricity.” This quote from Antonio Marras rang strong through his extremely eccentric spring collection. Looking through it, I was really blown away. Marras has somehow been able to bring together extremely complicated and unique designs with a relaxed, easy, and fresh look. No garment on the runway felt at all overwrought. Some of my favorite looks were the matching brocade shift dress and jacket, and the finale white lace dress. Yet, all of these garments are all so unique and distinct that it feels wrong to compare them, and I truly admire them all. There is truly no way for me to accurately summarize such a wonderfully broad collection, so if you love these pieces as much as I do, I encourage you to click on one of the looks above to take a look at the entire collection. It’s magical. In the words of Marras, “I like a lot of things, together.”

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